Silver and grey hair has its own particular needs. Understanding what changes as hair loses its pigment makes it easier to adapt your routine and keep it looking its best.
Why hair turns grey
Hair colour comes from melanin, a pigment produced by cells in the hair follicle. As we age, those cells gradually slow down and eventually stop producing melanin. New hairs grow without pigment, appearing white. What we call "grey" is usually a mix of pigmented and white hairs growing alongside each other. When all pigment production stops, hair becomes fully white.
Where on that spectrum you end up — steely, salt-and-pepper, or fully white — is largely determined by genetics.
How grey hair is different
Grey and white hair tends to behave differently from pigmented hair, for a few reasons.
The cuticle is more open. Pigmented hair has a tighter cuticle structure. Grey hair tends to have a more open cuticle, which makes it more porous, more prone to dryness, and more likely to look dull or frizzy.
Sebum production slows. At around the same time hair starts to grey, the sebaceous glands that produce natural scalp oil often slow down. Less natural oil means hair can become drier, more brittle, and more prone to frizz. This often coincides with perimenopause and menopause, which can independently affect hair texture and density. You can read more about menopause and hair here.
Heat damage happens more easily. Without melanin to absorb and distribute heat, grey hair burns more easily. The same heat tool settings that worked before may now cause damage.
How to care for grey and silver hair
Prioritise moisture. Dryness is the most common complaint with grey hair. A regular deep conditioning treatment, weekly if possible, makes a significant difference. Look for masks or treatments designed for dry or mature hair. Microwaveable heat caps can help treatments penetrate more effectively.
Be gentle with wet hair. All hair is most vulnerable when wet, and grey hair particularly so. Avoid rubbing with a traditional terry towel, which creates friction on the open cuticle. A smooth, soft fabric like organic jersey cotton is gentler and absorbs water without roughing up the hair shaft. You can read more about how fabric affects wet hair here.
Lower your heat styling temperature. If you use heat tools, reduce the temperature setting and always use a heat protectant. Good quality tools with precise temperature controls are worth the investment.
Protect from UV exposure. UV rays can yellow and damage grey hair over time. Look for leave-in products with UV filters, and wear a hat with SPF protection in strong sun.
Consider a toning shampoo or conditioner. Grey and white hair can pick up yellow tones from minerals, sun exposure, and product buildup. A purple or violet toning shampoo used occasionally, not every wash, can help neutralise brassiness and keep silver tones bright. Don't overuse it, as it can temporarily tint hair.
Switch your pillowcase. Silk or satin pillowcases create significantly less friction than cotton during sleep. Worth considering for all hair types, but especially for drier, more fragile grey hair.
Review your products. Products designed for coloured or chemically treated hair aren't always the right choice for natural grey. Sulphate-free, moisturising formulas tend to work well. Look for ones specifically developed for grey or silver hair.
